Vintage Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. "Croisillon" Bracelet
Regular price
$42,500
This vintage Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. "Croisillon" bracelet is composed of blue paillonné enamel and 18K gold. The bracelet is designed as a series of curved links with X and arched bands surrounded by blue paillonné enamel. A strong modernist design belonging to the prêt-à-porter series beloved of Jackie Kennedy and Diana Vreeland, this early "Croisillon" bracelet realized for Tiffany by French jewelers and enamelists of great skill and refinement is a hard-to-find classic.
Item #: BA-22032
Artist: Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.
Country: United States
Circa: 1970s-1980s
Size: 6.50" interior circumference
Materials: 18K Gold; Pailloné Blue Enamel
Gram Weight: 90.4 g.
Signed: TIFFANY & CO SCHLUMBERGER 18K
Literature: A bracelet of this design is pictured in The Jewels of Jean Schlumberger, by Chantal Bizpt et al., p. 145, and identified as model 1960.
Item #: BA-22032
Artist: Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.
Country: United States
Circa: 1970s-1980s
Size: 6.50" interior circumference
Materials: 18K Gold; Pailloné Blue Enamel
Gram Weight: 90.4 g.
Signed: TIFFANY & CO SCHLUMBERGER 18K
Literature: A bracelet of this design is pictured in The Jewels of Jean Schlumberger, by Chantal Bizpt et al., p. 145, and identified as model 1960.
In the 1960s Jean Schlumberger helped revive the technique of paillonné enameling, a 19th century art. Clear, tinted enamel is applied repeatedly over fragments of gold sheet for the dozens of iterations necessary to create the desired depth and shimmering quality, a high risk process offering many chances for disaster to strike and the enamel to bubble and crack. Known as "Jackie bracelets," these Schlumberger enamel pieces were the chic daytime accessory of the 1960s. In this period, one of the creators of this model of bracelet for Schlumberger were the sons of Parisian jeweler and Cartier-supplier Pierre G. Brun, namely the brothers Jean-Pierre and Jacques Laurent. Jean-Pierre also collaborated with Jean Herz to found the Société Nouvelle Herz-Belperron, where his daughter Valerie worked as a designer. Jean-Pierre cultivated relationships with New York luxury houses, and his firm supplied superior French work not only Tiffany & Co. but also to Verdura. The atelier under this generation was active dates from 1965 until 2000, when it was absorbed by Cartier, a client. Another outstanding enamelist working for Tiffany on these Schlumberger bangles was Yves Bérot, who had a workshop in the Pyrenees. and the Schlumberger Tiffany signature is hand engraved, suggesting the vintage dating.
In the 1960s Jean Schlumberger helped revive the technique of paillonné enameling, a 19th century art. Clear, tinted enamel is applied repeatedly over fragments of gold sheet for the dozens of iterations necessary to create the desired depth and shimmering quality, a high risk process offering many chances for disaster to strike and the enamel to bubble and crack. Known as "Jackie bracelets," these Schlumberger enamel pieces were the chic daytime accessory of the 1960s. In this period, one of the creators of this model of bracelet for Schlumberger were the sons of Parisian jeweler and Cartier-supplier Pierre G. Brun, namely the brothers Jean-Pierre and Jacques Laurent. Jean-Pierre also collaborated with Jean Herz to found the Société Nouvelle Herz-Belperron, where his daughter Valerie worked as a designer. Jean-Pierre cultivated relationships with New York luxury houses, and his firm supplied superior French work not only Tiffany & Co. but also to Verdura. The atelier under this generation was active dates from 1965 until 2000, when it was absorbed by Cartier, a client. Another outstanding enamelist working for Tiffany on these Schlumberger bangles was Yves Bérot, who had a workshop in the Pyrenees. and the Schlumberger Tiffany signature is hand engraved, suggesting the vintage dating.
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